Client Order Submission
Complete all sections and submit. The atelier will confirm receipt within 1–2 business days.
Fitting Guide
Measurement technique — study before every appointment
Before you start: Measure over a well-fitted dress shirt only. Use a soft measuring tape — snug but not tight. Take each measurement twice and record the consistent result.
Upper Body — Jacket
Front ViewImage coming soon
Side ViewImage coming soon
Back ViewImage coming soon
Neck
Around the base of the neck where the collar sits. Add ½" for comfort — one finger should fit underneath.Typical: 14" – 18½"
Chest
Around the fullest part of the chest, under the arms. Tape horizontal. Client breathes normally — do not let them hold their breath.Typical: 34" – 54"
Jacket Waist
Around the narrowest point of the torso — approximately 1" above the navel. Snug but not compressed.Typical: 28" – 52"
Seat
Around the fullest part of the seat, 7–9" below the natural waist. Keep tape level all the way around.Typical: 32" – 58"
Shoulder (Back)
From edge of one shoulder seam point across the back to the other. Client stands relaxed, arms at sides. The most critical measurement for jacket fit.Typical: 14" – 22"
Front Shoulder
Same as back shoulder measured across the front. Helps identify asymmetry between front and back.Typical: 13" – 20"
Sleeve Length
Arm slightly bent, measure from top of shoulder seam down the outer arm to the wrist bone. Always measure both left and right — they often differ.Typical: 23" – 34"
Bicep
Around the fullest part of the upper arm with arm relaxed at side. Do not flex.Typical: 11" – 18"
Wrist
Around the wrist bone. Determines sleeve opening and shirt cuff width.Typical: 6" – 8½"
Jacket Length
From top of collar seam (back of neck) straight down the center back to where fingers curl when arms hang naturally.Typical: 28" – 36"
Lower Body — Trousers
WaistImage coming soon
U-RiseImage coming soon
Length / BreakImage coming soon
Pant Waist
At the point where trousers will sit. Confirm with client: high, mid, or standard rise preference before measuring.Typical: 28" – 52"
U-Rise
From center front waistband, down through the crotch, up to center back waistband. Measure while client sits — most accurate method for rise.Typical: 24" – 34"
Thigh
Around fullest part of the thigh, 1" below the crotch seam. Measure both legs — note any asymmetry above ¼".Typical: 20" – 32" per leg
Calf
Around the fullest part of the calf. Determines trouser taper. Measure both legs.Typical: 13" – 18" per leg
Pant Length
From top of waistband down the outside of the leg. Confirm break style with client first. Adjust final measurement accordingly and note break style in submission.No Break / Slight Break / Full Break
Common Mistakes — Avoid These
Tape too loose
The most common error. A loose tape adds unwanted ease — the garment will be too large. Keep tape snug throughout.
Poor posture
Client must stand naturally — shoulders back, arms relaxed. Slouching or tensing changes all measurements significantly.
One side only
Always measure both sleeves and both legs. Asymmetry is common and important. Never assume both sides match.
Skipping break
Always confirm trouser break style before taking pant length. It changes the measurement and the entire look of the trouser.
Rushing
Take every measurement twice. If they differ by more than ¼", take a third. Speed causes expensive corrections.
Index & Style Tips
Key terms, silhouettes, and consultation guidance
During consultations: When unsure of a term, look it up here. When in doubt about a client's preference, ask — always better to ask than to guess and submit incorrect details.
Fit Styles
Slim (Modern)
Close to the body throughout. Narrow shoulders, suppressed waist, high armhole, tapered trousers. Best for lean or athletic builds.
- Narrow lapel
- No / slight break
- High armhole
Classic (Traditional)
Comfortable across chest and shoulders with moderate waist suppression. Versatile for most builds. The most universally requested silhouette.
- Medium lapel
- Slight / full break
- Relaxed seat
British
Between slim and classic. Structured, slightly suppressed waist, clean lines. Popular with professional clients who want polish without restriction.
- Medium lapel
- Slight break
- Structured shoulder
Lapel Styles
Notch Lapel
Standard business lapel. A notch where the collar meets the lapel. Versatile — appropriate for all occasions and most suit styles.
Peak Lapel
Points upward and outward. Associated with double-breasted suits and formal wear. More assertive. Often requested for tuxedos.
Shawl Lapel
A single continuous curve — no notch. Used almost exclusively on tuxedos and dinner jackets. The most formal lapel style.
Width Guide
Narrow: under 2.5". Standard: 2.75"–3.5". Wide: over 3.5". Lapel width should roughly mirror tie width for visual balance.
Trouser Break
No Break
Hem sits at the top of the shoe. Clean, modern look. Confirm client is comfortable — reads short on some builds.
Slight Break
A small fold where the trouser meets the shoe. Most versatile — universally flattering. Works for business and formal wear.
Full Break
A more pronounced fold at the shoe. Traditional and relaxed. More common with classic fit.
Jacket Front Styles
Single Breasted
One row of buttons. Most versatile jacket front. 1–5 buttons. 2-button is most common for business. 1-button for formal / tuxedo.
Double Breasted
Two rows of buttons with an overlap. More formal and structured. 6x2 (classic), 4x1, 2x1. Typically paired with peak lapels.
Tuxedo / Black Tie Details
Satin on Lapel
Matching satin fabric applied to the lapel face. Standard for tuxedos. Paired with shawl or peak lapel.
Satin Buttons
Buttons covered in matching satin. Used on jacket front and sometimes sleeve buttons for formal wear.
Pocket Besoms
Jetted pockets (no flap) with satin-covered welt. Standard hip and chest pocket style for tuxedos.
Pant Side Seam
Satin stripe running down the outer seam of each trouser leg. Standard tuxedo trouser detail.
Satin Waistband
Waistband faced in matching satin. Used with side seam satin for a fully formal trouser.
Consultation Tips
"What's the occasion?"
Always ask first. The occasion determines formality, fabric weight, and silhouette. A wedding suit and a business suit are very different garments.
"Do you have a reference?"
Ask if they have a photo of a suit they love. Fastest way to align on style. Upload it with the order under Style Inspiration.
"How do you like your jacket to feel?"
"Comfortable" → Classic or British. "Sharp" → Slim or British. Opens the fit conversation without technical language.
"Any concerns from past suits?"
Many clients have specific fit issues — broad shoulders, long torso, one arm shorter. Ask early and note it in measurement comments.
On pricing
Custom Suit: $1,000–$1,400 (house fabrics). Custom Shirt: $200. Never negotiate. If pushed: "Our pricing reflects the craftsmanship and service — it's fixed." For specialty requests, direct to the atelier.